May 2018 Trip

Due to the high probability of rain on Saturday, the ACC climbing trip has been postponed until Sunday, May 6th.

We will meet at the Marietta Park N  Ride at 0700 and carpool to the cliff.

Castle Rock is the obvious, orange bluff looming over the town of Jasper, TN. This excellent, South-facing sandstone crag is a great Winter crag which hosts almost 100 sport and trad routes ranging in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.14a, with most of the routes falling between 5.11a and 5.12d. The climbs are typically 80-120 feet and involve blocky features, sidepulls, slopers, and technical sequences on slabby to slightly overhanging rock. The harder routes on the Apes Wall tend to be a bit steeper with roof encounters towards the top.

Most of the routes were established in the 80’s and 90’s, but since it sits on private land, it was closed for almost a decade until a verbal agreement was reached, and a lease was signed by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition(SCC) with help from the Access Fund in 2005.

IMPORTANT!!!
You are a guest on private land. Please take a moment to read the sign at the parking area. Some of the important rules include…

1. Obey the 20MPH speed limit on the dirt road.
2. Do not go into the rock yard across the road from the parking area.
3. Text your make and model to Ms. Phillips(the land owner) at 423-421-9760.
4. If nature calls while you are climbing, stay 200 feet from the stream that flows from Castle Rock and do not tamper with hoses that run down the hill. These supply Ms. Phillips with her water.
5. No fires at the crag.
6. No Dogs allowed.
7. Keep noise levels to a minimum.
8. Pack out trash.
9. If SCC parking area is full, do not park.
10. Never block roads or driveways.
11. No camping at Castle Rock. The nearest camping is at Foster Falls.
12. Do not stay past sunset. The gate will be locked after dark.

Castle Rock is accessible through a multitude of partnerships including SCC but not exclusively. It is owned by the Tennessee River Gorge Trust who allows the actual climbing. Please read below (pasted from trgt.org/castle-rock)

While the Tennessee River Gorge Trust owns the property, including the climbing bluff itself, we added greater strength to its protection by partnering with the Land Trust for Tennessee granting them a Conservation Easement. The parking area and access trail to Castle Rock was built by Wild Trails and is leased and managed by the Southeastern Climber’s Coalition. The Access Fund was instrumental in nurturing these partnerships and providing advice throughout the process. All of these partnerships make Castle Rock possible and highlight the collaborative spirit between Chattanooga’s non-profit organizations and our community members.

If you can, show your appreciation for access to this crag by volunteering for a trail day, or donate a few dollars.

For more information on Castle Rock visit The SCC website at
seclimbers.org/modules.php?….

Getting There

From Chattanooga, TN.

Take I-24 West towards Nashville for about 20 miles- passing Nickajack Lake. Just past a huge fireworks store in the median take Hwy 28 North for a few miles to the offramp for Jasper. Go left, under a bridge and into downtown Jasper. Take a right at a light by the courthouse onto Hwy 41 towards Tracy City. After 1.2 miles take a veer left, staying on Hwy 41 which takes you uphill.

A couple of miles after veering left, look for an obvious stone sign that says Greystone on the right. Follow this dirt road until you see a small parking area on the right across from a rock yard.

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May 2018 Meeting

Come join us at the Concourse Athletic Club Thursday, May 3rd for our May meeting. This month we are doing Climbing Trivia Night. Test your climbing knowledge and impress your friends!

The meeting starts at 7:00, with the presentation starting around 7:30.

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April 2018 Trip Report

Saturday the 21st was a beautiful day in Alabama, and the ACC took full advantage. A dozen members arrived to partake of the climbing at Palisades Park, many arriving right at opening time. Climbers in attendance

  • Chuck
  • Connell
  • Denmark
  • Gary
  • Gene
  • Greg
  • Kenny
  • Kim
  • Kirsten
  • Mike
  • Sue
  • Terry

Kenny leads Buckets

We got started on the south side of things. It didn’t take long before we were trading top-ropes on the area classics. As the day wore on, numbers dwindled as we worked our way northward. By the end of the day only 6 remained, and we wrapped things up and headed out a little before sunset. A few of the climbs we did

  • Elephant Crack
  • Buckets
  • Boobs
  • Unnamed 5.8 (Gary’s favorite!)
  • Box Lunch
  • Marginal Monster
  • Posey’s Pass
  • Cashmere
  • Trivial Pursuit
  • Captain Crunch

Top-roping in the Boobs area

Gene was awarded the Sending Chain, for making quota for the day and generally doing a great job with lots of challenging climbs.

Gene with the Sending Chain

The final 6 climbers headed to Mi Casita for some Mexican food and beers, where we were treated to some very well-sung — and very LOUD — country karaoke. After eating and drinking our fill we headed back home for some well-deserved rest.

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April 2018 Trip Postponed

Due to inclement weather, the April 2018 trip has been postponed to Saturday, April 21st.

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April 2018 Trip

The Atlanta Climbing Club Trip that has been originally scheduled for Saturday April 28th  has been moved up to Saturday April 14th.  This will allow reschedule dates if we continue with the weekend pattern of rain.

The club will be going to Palisades Park this Saturday April 14, 2018.  If you’re new to climbing Palisades Park is a great choice.  We will meet at the Thornton Road Park and Ride at 0700.  (The park and ride is located on I-20 and Thornton Road). It takes approximately 2.5 hours to get to Palisades.

Located not far from Birmingham, Palisades is a Blount County Park with a nice little cliff line running just below its parking lot. There’s a good range of climbing difficulty, ranging from easy 5.4 up to roofy 5.12. Almost all routes can be easily top-roped without leading, and most have permanent anchors, so it’s a perfect place for a beginner’s first outdoor climbing experience. And if you’re just getting started on trad, Palisades is an excellent training ground; routes like Buckets (5.5) offer easy leading and plentiful protection. Be aware, though, that the grades tend to be sandbagged; Elephant Crack (5.6) and Box Lunch (5.7) are not for the novice leader. There’s no sport climbing at Palisades; no bolting is allowed.

All climbers must register at the park office and buy a $5 climbing permit (good for three days) or a $35 annual permit. From the parking lot, head for the cliff top near a picnic pavilion and scramble down a fourth-class gully/chimney to the base of the cliff.

Directions:

 GPS   33.989, -86.458

 From Birmingham, take SR 75 north to Oneonta. Take a left on US 231 (north); about a mile or two outside of Oneonta, watch for signs pointing to Palisades Park and follow county roads to the park entrance.

From Atlanta, take I-20 west to the US 231 exit. Follow 231 north through Oneonta, then follow directions above to the park.

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April 2018 Meeting

Come join us at the Concourse Athletic Club Thursday, April 5th for our April meeting. This month we have a Mystery Date, where the presentation will be one of the following:

  • Local climber poaches a Grade IV 5.10 A3 route in a neighboring state.
  • Alabama climbers establishes a Grade VII 5.11 A4 above the Artic Circle.
  • A short film from Reel Rock 11

The meeting starts at 7:00, with the presentation starting around 7:30.

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March 2018 Trip to Rumbling Bald

The trip to Rumbling Bald was a great success! Many climbers chose to come up Friday to get a head start on the weekend, with a few coming up Saturday and a couple of day-trippers on Sunday. We even had a couple of local guest climbers to round out the trip.

Climbers

  • Bindal
  • Chuck
  • Denmark
  • Gary
  • Greg
  • Ian
  • Ken
  • Kenny
  • Mark
  • Susan
  • Tim

Gerise didn’t climb, but deserves special mention since she got to Sierra Nevada early on St. Patrick’s Day and got us on the list for a table.

Saturday Climbs

  • 5.8 Crack
  • It’s Good to be King
  • It’s Good to be Queen
  • Family Feud
  • Family Sport
  • Dirty Jugs
  • The Crimp and the Crush
  • Weight and Balance Check
  • Cooter Bug
  • Rusty Redneck
  • 5.9 Sport
  • Comatose
  • Conception

Gary appears to be doing a bit of gardening.

Tim and Ken on Conception

Mark was awarded the Sending Chain on Saturday, for thrashing spectacularly on 5.8 Crack and then proceeding to dominate every difficult climb on top rope.

Mark enjoying the perks of the Sending Chain.

Sunday Climbs

  • I’m Gumbie Damn It
  • The Gift
  • Gift Certificate
  • Drivin’ and Cryin’
  • Bear Cub
  • Bear Hunt
  • Silent Treatment
  • Gunboat Diplomacy
  • Seven Year Itch

Kenny got the chain on Sunday for being both the first climber on the rock at Flakeview that day and the last. He just outlasted the rest of us.

Kenny wins again, becoming the first two-time recipient of the Sending Chain.

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March Trip Postponed

Due to inclement weather, the March Trip has been postponed to March 17/18.

Come join us for our first overnight trip of the year. Meet at the Rumbling Bald parking lot Saturday at 8:00 for a day of climbing, followed by dinner at the nearby Sierra Nevada Brewery in Mills River. Overnight accommodations are on your own. We’ll climb again on Sunday starting at 8:00 as well.

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February 2018 Trip Report

On Sunday February 18th, after postponing our trip one week due to rain, we finally made it to Foster Falls, a sport climbing destination just west of Chattanooga near the town of Jasper.

A few of us (Chuck, Tim, Denmark, Gene, and Jim) met at the Marietta Park N Ride at 0700 to start our trek and amazingly Jim Allison actually showed up on time – 5 minutes early, and had all of his gear.   On the way to the crag, Chuck and Tim stopped and picked up Jen Kemper at the Cracker Barrel at exit 290.

We arrived at Foster Falls about 0900 eastern, where we met Reagan and new members Kenny and Kim in the parking lot.

Once we got down to the cliff line, a lot of the routes were running water due to heavy rain earlier in the week, so the search was on for dry lines.

As a warm-up Tim put up Bear Mountain Picnic. Chuck put up Mammy – really Chuck? You put this up as a warm-up!  Denmark put up Story of My Life (P1).

Around 1000 or so the entire Mekolites clan arrived with new dog and hammock in tow. The only item missing was the boom box. Jeff set a few routes and was the proud papa belaying Evan as he crushed them.

During the gorgeous sunny day the following routes were climbed:

  • Afterburner
  • Ankles Away
  • Bear Mountain Picnic
  • Diamond Cutter
  • Dihedral
  • Fish Eyed Fool
  • Gravity Boots
  • Hola Bitch
  • Narcissism
  • Saturated
  • Standing Room Only
  • Therapist

On Standing Room Only, Tim got served again at the crux, but he’s getting close. Chuck really got served and was caught putting his arm through a draw to rest.

About 1400, Ian and Susan showed up and climbed a few routes before trekking back to the parking lot for cold beverages and a group photo.

So as you’ve been reading this I know you are probably wondering – Who won the Sending Chain? There were a lot of worthy efforts, but the winner was the new guy –Kenny (don’t know his last name, but I was told he owns an animal farm). Kenny was one of the most enthusiastic new members we’ve had in a while, wanting to learn everything. So what happens? Chuck says, “I’ve got a plan, come with me, your gonna lead your first climb.” So off goes Chuck and Kenny and we don’t see them until almost sunset at the parking lot. Rumors were going around that Chuck killed Kenny (you bastard!) We need to get Kenny an orange jacket. So, Chuck and Kenny get back at the parking lot with gigantic smiles and legend has it that Kenny on-sighted his first climb – Afterburner 5.5C and then took the big Whip on Gravity Boots 5.7D. Chuck then talked Kenny into one more climb –Therapist and was taught how to clean a route. So there you have it, Kenny was a shoe-in after putting up with Chuck’s Shenanigans.

After Kenny was awarded the Sending Chain we all met at Mojo Burrito for dinner, and then started our trek home, glad that Chuck didn’t kill Kenny.

Oh, by the way, Jim, nice footwork.

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February 2018 Meeting

Come join us Thursday, March 1st at our new location – The Concourse Athletic Club.

Our presenter is local climber Justin Castleberry, talking about his trip last summer to Chamonix. Justin managed to climb quite a few classics, including the Matterhorn, Grand Capuchin, and Mount Blanc. If you are curious about climbing in the Alps, come join us.

The meeting starts at 7:00 for social time, with the presentation starting around 7:30.

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