September 2018 Trip

In addition to the Falling and Commitment Clinic on September 8, 2018, the Atlanta Climbing Club will also be doing a day trip to Yellow Bluff, Alabama.

Located near Huntsville, Yellow Bluff is a long (about 1500′) unbroken hard sandstone cliff. Development began in the 1980s with the discovery of the cliff by Atlanta climber Shannon Stegg. Numerous trad lines were established by Stegg and other pioneers, including James Dobbs and Curt and Betty Jo Merchant. Later, local leaders like Jesse Guthrie began putting up sport routes, including Guthrie’s Rainbow Warrior (5.13a/b), the first 5.13 in Alabama. The quality of climbing at Yellow Bluff attracted attention from as far away as NY; climbers flocked to sample the excellent sandstone crack lines.

We will meet at the Thornton Road Park N Ride off I-20 at 0600am as the drive takes a little less than 3 hours.

Directions:

From Atlanta, take I-20 west into Alabama for about 90 miles to the Oxford/Anniston area. Take exit 188 to US 431 North. Continue on 431 into Gadsden; after crossing I-59, look for the turnoff to US 278. Take 278 west to US 231. Turn right on 231, then almost immediately left on SR 67 and follow this about 20 miles. Just before the Florette crossroads, turn right on Pines Road; follow this for about a mile to a sharp left onto Fowler Road. Continue as noted above to Yellow Bluff.

From the parking lot area, follow the obvious trail marked with surveyors tape. A five-minute hike will bring you to the base of the cliff near the right end of the SCC-owned section.

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September 2018 Clinic

The Atlanta Climbing Club is offering a Falling and Commitment Clinic on Saturday, September 8th at Sandrock, AL. This will be taught by Arno Ilgner / Warrior’s Way.

How do you react when you are pumped and doubting your ability to commit? Many climbers lose commitment because they over-think. To stay committed you need to stop at stances and think through the risk. Then you need to make an appropriate risk decision, and commit completely to taking action on that decision. That is the emphasis of this camp.

You’ll learn to:•Become aware of your mind’s limiting tendencies

  • Use your mind’s intelligence to do effective risk-assessment
  • Distinguish between no-fall and yes-fall zones
  • Make appropriate risk decisions
  • Rest efficiently
  • Develop flow and momentum
  • Deal with climbing stress/chaos
  • Improve problem-solving skills
  • Reduce fear, and more

Pre-requisites:

  • Able to toprope 5.8 in a gym with no falls
  • Climb indoors/outdoors at least 1-2 times per week
  • At least 6 months of continuous climbing experience within the last year

The Cost is $85 per person. Currently the class is limited to 6 participants, on a first come, first served basis, by emailing the club at atlantaclimbingclub@gmail.com.

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September 2018 Meeting

Come join us Thursday, September 6th at the Concourse Athletic Club for our first meeting after summer break. Our presenter will be Arno Ilgner talking about climbing history in North Carolina. For those of you not familiar with Arno, he was a pioneering rock climber in the southeast. He subsequently developed a mental training program which he now teaches full time. Check out the Warrior’s Way website for more information on his program.

Social time starts at 7:00, with the meeting starting at 7:30.

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June 2018 Meeting

Come join us Thursday, June 7th at the Concourse Athletic Club for our last meeting before the summer break. Our presenter will be local guide Scott Perkins talking about climbing the Direct North Buttress of Bear Mountain.

Social time starts at 7:00, with the meeting starting at 7:30.

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May 2018 Trip Report

The following ACC members met at 0700 at the Marietta Park N Ride for the ride to Castle Rock and a full day of climbing:

  • Tim (Mothy) Lacny
  • Denmark Blount
  • Jim (Twinkle Toes) Allison
  • Alex Palmiter
  • James Martin
  • Lance Mendel

We arrived at the Crag at approximately 0900 and headed straight to the North End since the weather report called for a high in the 80’s.  Arriving at the North End we encountered cool breezes and a lots of shade with no snakes to be seen.

Tim warmed up on Inga La Dinga 5.10b, Denmark warmed up on Easy Enough 5.9, and Alex lead Fragile Holdings at 5.10d with a couple of hangs. Once the ropes were up people either top roped or lead the climbs with most people getting served on Inga La Dinga and Fragile Holdings.

We then head toward Point Buttress (Main Wall) but not before climbing Tall Boy 5.10a which was lead clean by Alex and Inga La Dinga 5.10b/c lead clean by Tim.  Others either top roped or pink pointed the climbs.

As we headed toward the Main Wall we saw a Gigantic Hornets Nest on the left over one of the bolted higher end routes.

Upon arriving at the Main Wall Denmark lead Orange Peel 5.10a, Alex lead Fun Employed 5.10b, and James lead Break Away 5.9+ while others either pink pointed or top roped the routes.

After meeting the old quota (this will be discussed later) of 8 climbs we all headed down to the parking area and drank a few brewskis. Since we got done early we all decided to head to The Wing and Tap House in Marietta for Beer and Food.

Other regulars, Chuck, Kenny, Kim, Gary, and Jake were all AWOL due to previous commitments due to the date change.

So you ask, “Who won the “Sending Chain”?  Well it was Alex.  Alex got on and lead some very difficult climbs for the grade. And, even though he didn’t send all of them clean, he did finished them.  There were some folks whippin’ off stuff – which can get you the chain, but the decision was made to award the chain for true grit and commitment.

Castle Rock Crew

See you next month at Sunset Rock where the new quota rules are in effect (10 pitches).  Who will win the Sending Chain? Are you worthy? What will it take? Come out and enjoy some great climbing, camaraderie, dinner, and brewskis (after climbing of course). To be eligible to win the “Sending Chain” you must be a ACC Member in Good Standing.  What does this mean? Pay your dues.

Until next month, Climb On!!!!!!

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May 2018 Trip

Due to the high probability of rain on Saturday, the ACC climbing trip has been postponed until Sunday, May 6th.

We will meet at the Marietta Park N  Ride at 0700 and carpool to the cliff.

Castle Rock is the obvious, orange bluff looming over the town of Jasper, TN. This excellent, South-facing sandstone crag is a great Winter crag which hosts almost 100 sport and trad routes ranging in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.14a, with most of the routes falling between 5.11a and 5.12d. The climbs are typically 80-120 feet and involve blocky features, sidepulls, slopers, and technical sequences on slabby to slightly overhanging rock. The harder routes on the Apes Wall tend to be a bit steeper with roof encounters towards the top.

Most of the routes were established in the 80’s and 90’s, but since it sits on private land, it was closed for almost a decade until a verbal agreement was reached, and a lease was signed by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition(SCC) with help from the Access Fund in 2005.

IMPORTANT!!!
You are a guest on private land. Please take a moment to read the sign at the parking area. Some of the important rules include…

1. Obey the 20MPH speed limit on the dirt road.
2. Do not go into the rock yard across the road from the parking area.
3. Text your make and model to Ms. Phillips(the land owner) at 423-421-9760.
4. If nature calls while you are climbing, stay 200 feet from the stream that flows from Castle Rock and do not tamper with hoses that run down the hill. These supply Ms. Phillips with her water.
5. No fires at the crag.
6. No Dogs allowed.
7. Keep noise levels to a minimum.
8. Pack out trash.
9. If SCC parking area is full, do not park.
10. Never block roads or driveways.
11. No camping at Castle Rock. The nearest camping is at Foster Falls.
12. Do not stay past sunset. The gate will be locked after dark.

Castle Rock is accessible through a multitude of partnerships including SCC but not exclusively. It is owned by the Tennessee River Gorge Trust who allows the actual climbing. Please read below (pasted from trgt.org/castle-rock)

While the Tennessee River Gorge Trust owns the property, including the climbing bluff itself, we added greater strength to its protection by partnering with the Land Trust for Tennessee granting them a Conservation Easement. The parking area and access trail to Castle Rock was built by Wild Trails and is leased and managed by the Southeastern Climber’s Coalition. The Access Fund was instrumental in nurturing these partnerships and providing advice throughout the process. All of these partnerships make Castle Rock possible and highlight the collaborative spirit between Chattanooga’s non-profit organizations and our community members.

If you can, show your appreciation for access to this crag by volunteering for a trail day, or donate a few dollars.

For more information on Castle Rock visit The SCC website at
seclimbers.org/modules.php?….

Getting There

From Chattanooga, TN.

Take I-24 West towards Nashville for about 20 miles- passing Nickajack Lake. Just past a huge fireworks store in the median take Hwy 28 North for a few miles to the offramp for Jasper. Go left, under a bridge and into downtown Jasper. Take a right at a light by the courthouse onto Hwy 41 towards Tracy City. After 1.2 miles take a veer left, staying on Hwy 41 which takes you uphill.

A couple of miles after veering left, look for an obvious stone sign that says Greystone on the right. Follow this dirt road until you see a small parking area on the right across from a rock yard.

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May 2018 Meeting

Come join us at the Concourse Athletic Club Thursday, May 3rd for our May meeting. This month we are doing Climbing Trivia Night. Test your climbing knowledge and impress your friends!

The meeting starts at 7:00, with the presentation starting around 7:30.

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April 2018 Trip Report

Saturday the 21st was a beautiful day in Alabama, and the ACC took full advantage. A dozen members arrived to partake of the climbing at Palisades Park, many arriving right at opening time. Climbers in attendance

  • Chuck
  • Connell
  • Denmark
  • Gary
  • Gene
  • Greg
  • Kenny
  • Kim
  • Kirsten
  • Mike
  • Sue
  • Terry

Kenny leads Buckets

We got started on the south side of things. It didn’t take long before we were trading top-ropes on the area classics. As the day wore on, numbers dwindled as we worked our way northward. By the end of the day only 6 remained, and we wrapped things up and headed out a little before sunset. A few of the climbs we did

  • Elephant Crack
  • Buckets
  • Boobs
  • Unnamed 5.8 (Gary’s favorite!)
  • Box Lunch
  • Marginal Monster
  • Posey’s Pass
  • Cashmere
  • Trivial Pursuit
  • Captain Crunch

Top-roping in the Boobs area

Gene was awarded the Sending Chain, for making quota for the day and generally doing a great job with lots of challenging climbs.

Gene with the Sending Chain

The final 6 climbers headed to Mi Casita for some Mexican food and beers, where we were treated to some very well-sung — and very LOUD — country karaoke. After eating and drinking our fill we headed back home for some well-deserved rest.

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April 2018 Trip Postponed

Due to inclement weather, the April 2018 trip has been postponed to Saturday, April 21st.

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April 2018 Trip

The Atlanta Climbing Club Trip that has been originally scheduled for Saturday April 28th  has been moved up to Saturday April 14th.  This will allow reschedule dates if we continue with the weekend pattern of rain.

The club will be going to Palisades Park this Saturday April 14, 2018.  If you’re new to climbing Palisades Park is a great choice.  We will meet at the Thornton Road Park and Ride at 0700.  (The park and ride is located on I-20 and Thornton Road). It takes approximately 2.5 hours to get to Palisades.

Located not far from Birmingham, Palisades is a Blount County Park with a nice little cliff line running just below its parking lot. There’s a good range of climbing difficulty, ranging from easy 5.4 up to roofy 5.12. Almost all routes can be easily top-roped without leading, and most have permanent anchors, so it’s a perfect place for a beginner’s first outdoor climbing experience. And if you’re just getting started on trad, Palisades is an excellent training ground; routes like Buckets (5.5) offer easy leading and plentiful protection. Be aware, though, that the grades tend to be sandbagged; Elephant Crack (5.6) and Box Lunch (5.7) are not for the novice leader. There’s no sport climbing at Palisades; no bolting is allowed.

All climbers must register at the park office and buy a $5 climbing permit (good for three days) or a $35 annual permit. From the parking lot, head for the cliff top near a picnic pavilion and scramble down a fourth-class gully/chimney to the base of the cliff.

Directions:

 GPS   33.989, -86.458

 From Birmingham, take SR 75 north to Oneonta. Take a left on US 231 (north); about a mile or two outside of Oneonta, watch for signs pointing to Palisades Park and follow county roads to the park entrance.

From Atlanta, take I-20 west to the US 231 exit. Follow 231 north through Oneonta, then follow directions above to the park.

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